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Welcome to our Question & Answer Bulletin Board -- a bulletin board for collectors and anyone else to post questions about railroadiana. It is moderated (all volunteer) but is not staffed by "experts". Rather it relies on everyone to share what they know. Any informational question about railroadiana is welcome except the following:

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Latest 25 Questions:

 Q1821 Test Gauge Origins?  I recently acquired a beautiful old Westinghouse locomotive test gauge ('Red Hand-Main Res.; Black Hand-Brake Cyl') made by the Star Brass Mfg. Co. The gauge displays patent dates of July 1888, January 1892 and July 1893, and a serial number of 440267. With this information, is it possible to ascertain when the gauge was made, who purchased it and what locomotive it was installed in? I have a sense this may asking the impossible, but I thought I'd hazard a question anyway. Thanks for any information. Best Regards  Posted Monday, March 8, 2010 by CR   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Hello. There were many thousands of gages like this manufactured. They were all functionally identical and there was no reason to associate a particular gage with a particular locomotive. Indeed, under the Federal safety rules, the air brake gages and the steam pressure gages on locomotives frequently had to be removed from the engine and tested with a 'dead weight' calibration standard device, and labelled with their calibration dates. Again, once the gages were off the locomotive, there was no particular reason for the same gages to go back, as long as the operating gages were properly calibrated. So unless there is other information, beyond the gage itself, there is no way to determine which engine, engines, or even which railroad it may have been used on.  Posted Wednesday, March 10, 2010 by RJMc

 Q1820 Historical Travel Information Needed  I’m writing a western taking place in 1881 and am becoming increasingly AR, with details. This site is the closest I’ve found that could aid me. If possible, I would like to know the cost of train fair from Santa Fe, New Mexico (change trains at Lamy) to Pueblo, Colorado, on the The Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway , often abbreviated as Santa Fe. How long that would that trip take? I would also like to know the price from Pueblo to Denver; and how long that would take? An exact schedule would do wonders, in I could put the character getting into or leaving town at a certain time. I have put a WOG of 1 1/2 hours to from Pueblo to Colorado, Springs, because the train would stop at every whistle stop along the way, because of the hanging of W.H. SALISBURY (a.k.a. William H. Canty). June 17, 1881.taking place in Colorado Springs. All I have to offer in return is the wages on a Central Pacific road. The wages paid on the railroad in 1881 are, engineers five dollars per day, conductors four dollars, firemen three dollars and fifty cents, and brakemen three dollars and twenty-five cents. This is taken from The Nevada Observer, November 25, 2005. It was a good reprint article from 1881, explaining the greed of the Railroads. Thank you,  Posted Monday, March 8, 2010 by Bill C.   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. HI! Try contacting the Santa Fe Railway Historical And Modeling Society (SFRH&MS). You can find them on the internet. They are a good group and they helped me with a particular detail in a Santa Fe dining car. A lot of historical societies have large archives with all sorts of information, photos, documents, etc. Good luck with your search. Posted Tuesday, March 9, 2010 by JN

A. In addition to contacting the historical societies, see the answer to prior Q 1768, also about investigating 'historical' rail trips around Colorado. I strongly recommend acquiring one of the Guides to the Railways on CD and learning at your leisure how the Railway Guide (and incidentally, still is) worked and was used; you will probably find it fascinating in its own right. Guides in the time period you want had 600 or 700 pages covering all of North America and even ship lines overseas. Unfortunately, the dates for Guides available on CD are a little distant for your selected time ( 1868 or 1910 are available.) So once you see what an incredible wealth of info is in the Guide, then you can decide how hard to search for one for your exact month, if that's what you desire. But any Guide in your year of interest should be close enough to let you pick railroad companies, routes, trains, etc. for any trip you want to construct.  Posted Wednesday, March 10, 2010 by RJMc

 Q1819 Cleaning Builders Plates  I have several of these Steam Locomotive builders pates. I haven't cleaned any of them. Would you recommend cleaning the front of the second plate as it is very hard to make out the information? Thanks   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Monday, March 8, 2010 by GM   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Personal preference I suppose but I'd clean it. My wife wouldn't let me bring it in the house like that.(lol). I don't believe the coin collector mentality of "dirty is good" applies to builders plates. The ones I see at shows and on the web seem to have been cleaned up and some even polished bright. See link 1 Link 1  Posted Monday, March 8, 2010 by JCK

A. These plates are aluminum so you need to be very careful cleaning them I have bead blasted some cast brass and iron plates before with excellent results I think this plate could be bead blasted with no problem. Also I would not clean the back of any plate. A word of caution do NOT sand blast any plate  Posted Tuesday, March 9, 2010 by robert hedgecock

A. Find someone that does blasting that uses crushed walnut shells. This is considered a "soft" abrasive and should just remove the "crud" and not change the metal surface. Make sure you find a blaster that has done restoration work before and knows enough to turn the air pressure down for a job like this as even shells can warp metal if the air pressure is too high. I found a guy who did a lot of swimming pool and gunite work who was an Ace,..did blasting on the off season, so ask around to various sources. Some body shops might do it too. ...Red Beard. Posted Tuesday, March 9, 2010 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. Thanks for the input. I will be going with all of your advice since it all makes good sense. Especially the use of crushed wallnut shells, I would have never thought of that. Thanks again. Posted Wednesday, March 10, 2010 by GM

 Q1818 CC Sign  I saw a round white porcelain sign about a foot in diameter with black letters 'CC' in the middle. Is this a railroad signal sign and what does 'CC' mean? Thanks.  Posted Saturday, March 6, 2010 by BH   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. "CC" is a railroad "Crossing Circuit" sign. It really means 'highway grade Crossing train sensing Circuit(s) start/end here.' When a train passes the sign -- entering the circuit -- the lights, bells, and/or gates on the associated crossing will start to operate. Going the other way, the warning systems will stop when the train exits the circuit past the sign. These signs are usually put where switching is commonly done, so the switch crews can minimize disrupting the highway traffic as much as possible. They are also placed in locations such as passing track ends. Trains may often stand there for long periods, waiting for meets, and are required to stop short of crossing circuits so they don't tie up adjacent highway crossings for long periods. The link is a complete 1949 PRR St. Louis Divn. employee timetable with special instructions. The 'CC' sign is called out in the Special Instructions under the Automatic Highway Crossing Protection section on pg. 16 of 29.  Link 1  Posted Saturday, March 6, 2010 by RJMc

A. Thanks taking the time to answer. Info is a great help. Posted Saturday, March 6, 2010 by BH

 Q1817 Missabe Road Northland Cup/Saucer  I purchased this cup and saucer at an antique shop at least ten years ago. They are both top-marked The Missabe Road/Car Northland. They both have a Syracuse hallmark. The Northland is a heavyweight ex-Missabe business car now at the Lake Superior Railroad Museum in Duluth. I rode this car last summer and they had china just like this on board. My question is, was this china actually purchased by the DM&IR, or is it later production ordered by a subsequent owner of the car?   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Friday, March 5, 2010 by Dave F   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. They were ordered by the museum to sell as souvenirs. They were never actually used when the car was in regular service. Posted Friday, March 5, 2010 by BK

A. I don't believe the DM&IR ever provided any dining service on its regular passenger cars. The predecessor roads, the Duluth & Iron Range and the Duluth Missabe & Northern did provide dining service for a period of time. China from the predecessor railroads is very rare - and usually quite expensive if you can find it for sale. The Lake Superior Transportation Museum has a separate railroad car dedicated to excellent displays of rare, and not so rare, railroad china.  Posted Monday, March 8, 2010 by dmirguy

 Q1816 Lantern/Lamp Question  Are you familiar with this lantern? Can you tell me anything about it? Thanks.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Sunday, February 28, 2010 by Shane   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Tell us a liitle more here, since I see a paper tag hanging from the bottom of the lamp. Is it yours or are you looking at purchasing it? It does not appear to be railroad related. It might be a hanging store lamp that has been electrocuted, i.e. converted from oil burning to an electric light bulb. There is no other information available on it, like patent dates? I am guessing that it is about 24" tall. You should probably post this question on the International Guild of Lamp Researcher's website,www.lampguild.org the folks at The Lampguild might be able to identify it.  Posted Saturday, March 6, 2010 by KM

 Q1815 Steel A&W Switch Keys?  I picked up a well-used steel Colorado & Southern switch key just as Q1806 came out. The C&S key is nicely marked with an A&W two-line oval mark on the back. Q1806 gives some dates, and mentions earlier discussion on the Board, for which see Q1031. There is more info there on the dates of marks Adlake used on keys. I looked it up because I suspected WWII 'war baby' vintage for the C&S key, (saving copper) but the hallmark would indicate earlier -- maybe even back to the Spanish American War ('SAW')(!!). But I have found no references to saving copper in either WWI or SAW -- which only lasted a few months. Q1696 and Q1000 also talk about steel switch keys, but not Adlake ones. Anyone know when Colorado & Southern might have bought steel keys, or other cases of Adlake steel keys?  Posted Saturday, February 27, 2010 by RJMc   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Adlake steel switch keys exist for other roads, as do keys issued by Yale, G. W. Nock, Romer, J.H.W. Climax, Fraim, and Bohannan. I can't recall which other roads had steel Adlakes, but have seen them. The issue is not a restriction of saving brass and copper for wartime, like in 1943 Lincoln pennies, but instead relates to the company's preference for durability. I have seen very old brass keys that were extensively used during a man's career with severe wear at the tip of the barrel and the bit. I have also seen keys with the bit portion partially or completely broken off. If this happened a number of times due to frozen parts in a switch lock or a batch of poor brass from the foundry and if it got the attention of the higher-ups, the next order might have been specified in steel. The levers engaged by a key in a switch lock are thicker and more durable than the components of the key. For a thrifty road, maybe that's where they wanted the wear to occur.  Posted Saturday, February 27, 2010 by Rail Vandal

 Q1814 Decoupling Tool?  I am just going through some of my great-grandfather’s stuff. He was a conductor on the Union Pacific in the 1880’s, and carried the tool in the attached picture. I believe it to be some sort of decoupling tool, but am unsure. It is labeled on one side: 'M.M.Buck & Co., Makers', and on the other: 'Patent, Dec.6.1881'. Anyone know anything about it?   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Tuesday, February 23, 2010 by LH   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. It is a "car coupler" invented by Goodwin O. Bishop of Hannibal MO. Link 1  Posted Wednesday, February 24, 2010 by Dave F

A. Thanks Dave – the patent reference makes a great addition to a scrap book I’m making for my Dad’s 92nd birthday! Posted Wednesday, February 24, 2010 by LH

A. I have seen these tools referred to as a Link Knife Posted Wednesday, February 24, 2010 by DA

A. To couple cars with the 'link and pin(s)' system it was necessary to place the steel link (about 1 foot long and 6 or 8 inches across -- if they were any bigger or longer than this, trainmen couldn't carry them around) in the coupler pocket on one car and drop the pin thru to pin it there. (For illustrations see Link -- unavoidable pun not intended.) That left its other end hanging out, facing the other car. The cars had to be shoved together until the available end of the link entered the other coupler pocket, where the second pin could be dropped to complete the coupling. The problem came if the first coupler pocket, the link, and/or the first pin were all worn (common) and the link hung down too far to go into the facing pocket. That's when the trainman had to put his hand between the two coupler pocket faces and HOLD the link up until the two faces were much less than ONE FOOT apart. And remember, this was done daytime,nightime, ice storm, whatever, often with a kerosene lantern as the only light. This is where many, many fingers and hands were smashed and amputated. The Link Knife would be a very practical way to hold the link up until the second pin could be dropped, without the risk of placing any parts of you between the closing steel coupler pocket faces. Link and pin couplers are so dangerous they are banned by Federal law in the U.S.  Link 1  Posted Thursday, February 25, 2010 by RJMc

A. Here is a page from the 1900 MM Buck catalog showing this tool [see link]. Link 1  Posted Monday, March 1, 2010 by Bill K.

 Q1813 North Coast Limited Sign  The museum of which I am a member received this porcelain sign as a donation. It came from a collection in St Paul MN. The father of the collector worked at the Northern Pacific Como Shops in St Paul. It measures 26 in. x 20.5 in. and has 13 mounting holes spaced on the sides and bottom. The top edge has no holes. We’d like to know where or how this sign might have been used. Our first guess is it may have come from the St Paul Union Depot or the GN station in Minneapolis. Any information would be greatly appreciated.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Tuesday, February 23, 2010 by DF   Post a Reply  Email a reply

 Q1812 PRR Lock  I recently acquired this massive cast padlock out near Altoona, PA. Can anyone tell me what this lock would have been used for? Possibly an age? The manufacturer marking on the hasp is 'Chas J. Field(?) and Sons'. There is also the PRR keystone, a serial # and the letter I or T. Thank you to all readers for any information anyone can give me. Your website is a great resource.  [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Tuesday, February 23, 2010 by J.N.   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Lock is usually referred to as a potato or scandinavian lock. I have heard that they were used to lock box cars and are each keyed different. The lock should have a letter and serial number on the back that will match the key. I have seen master keys by letter, such as an "I" or "T" master would fit this lock. Keys are hard to match to locks.  Posted Wednesday, February 24, 2010 by cd

A. Question 258 on this board gives a good explanation on what these locks were used for. Posted Wednesday, February 24, 2010 by DA

A. Allow me to correct a common misperception about these locks. Chas. J. Field and Chas J. Fields Sons was a Philadelphia hardware distributor that sold things made by various manufacturers. They were never a manufacturer themselves. Look at the bottom where you see a star cast at the keyway. This was the logo for the Star Lock Works, also of Philadelphia. Star made a slew of Scandinavian locks in all sizes for both industry and personal use. They produced one model of lock that is about the size and shape as these, with an 1878 patent date. This does not mean that yours and others known were made at the same time. I am further researching when they were bought up by another concern, to give a clearer estimate of age.  Posted Wednesday, February 24, 2010 by Rail Vandal

A. Star Lock Works operated in Philadelphia from 1836 to 1926. I would guess PRR potato locks date anywhere from the 1880's to maybe the 1920's.  Posted Thursday, February 25, 2010 by Rail Vandal

 Q1811 ATSF + Navy Chronometer  I have a watch that is a Hamilton Model 22, 21 jewel,adjusted 6 position. It is marked US Navy B U 1942. It has screw holes for gimbal hookups and heavy weighted back. Has a larger front section with thick crystal, has time 1-12 with flourescent paint on the inside of crystal and hands. The face is redish color with white minute marks. The crystal is held on by four screws. An excellent chronometer that was modified and used by the Atchison Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad, which is stamped on the back. Is this one of a kind or did some of the railroads modify these for there use? I would appreciate any information you could help me with.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Tuesday, February 23, 2010 by Cal   Post a Reply  Email a reply

 Q1810 P&W Lock & Key  I bought a Pittsburgh & Western lock and key today. The lock was made by J.H.W. Climax. The lock and the key are both marked P&W Ry. Also, they are marked P M on the opposite sides of the hasp and key. The hasp of the lock is also a little taller than normal and straight on one side instead of rounded on both. The lock and key are both marked with a '3' on the side of the lettering. I was wondering what the 'P', 'M', & '3 stand for. Thanks,   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Sunday, February 21, 2010 by Gary   Post a Reply  Email a reply

 Q1809 What is this?  I've asked a number of railroad buffs and former Grand Trunk Railroad staff what an item is at our museum, but no one seems to know. We're hoping that you folks do. It has no writing or labels on it. It does have a large wick and appears to be kerosene. We are thinking that it's either some kind of a portable cooking device or a portable stove for warming grease pots in the old days? Thanks for any information that you can provide.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Sunday, February 21, 2010 by Reuben   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Its hard to tell from the single pic what size this may be, and how it really works. Some add'l pics would help. But first thoughts: the iron work is too fancy to be a utility tool.  Posted Tuesday, February 23, 2010 by RJMc

A. Reuben, I will take a stab at this. It is a kerosene stove. It should have a wick to burn kerosene with an adjustment knob to raise and lower the wick height. It is doubtful that this is of RR origin but "possibly" used in a caboose to cook on. However, all caboose stoves I have seen were mounted down stationary in some way. Most early cabs had coal burning stoves for heat and cooking and later ones used a propane gas cooking stove. These show up on the "Big Auction" from time to time. GP Posted Wednesday, February 24, 2010 by GaryP

 Q1808 ET&WNC Lamps?  These two classification lights were recently purchased in Elizabethton, Tennessee, where the ET&WNC’s final narrow gauge engine house was; they were made by Adlake. I am assuming these are locomotive units – they are smaller than a normal marker; only 10.5 inches tall to the chimney top with no wire bale and about 7” in diameter. The glass is clear, 5” diameter and only forward facing; each side of the lamp has a slide-on rod mount so they could be used on either side of the engine. Like many things on the narrow gauge, there is quite unfortunately no actual ET&WNC markings on them, which poses its own problems but not really important to me if I can find photographic or other evidence that the railroad used them. However, I’ve got a few questions as we try to figure out whether they are indeed from the Tweetsie line. First, one of these has a shop-made (tin or copper) lens support in place of the Adlake cast ring; would it be wise to try and restore that with a replacement or leave it intact. Unfortunately, at this late date, there is no one alive who worked there, but would their historical integrity be damaged by restoration? They are dirty but without any rust; the paint is older and worn in places, but they have personality as a result. Second, though the trimmers were gone, the kerosene pots were intact but are very small and slide into the base of the lamp – was there an additional piece to this? I am asking because the lamps do have primers in the rear center under the site glass, but they do not connect to anything. Finally, have looked through the Adam/Westlake catalogs on this site, I did not see this model lamp. There is no number nor patent date visible on it anywhere, just the Adlake word stamped on the chimney top. I want to put these on display with the other ET&WNC artifacts at the George L Carter Museum in Johnson City, TN, but could use some advice on the above questions. Thanks again to anybody who can shed some light on it.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Sunday, February 21, 2010 by QMP   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. See very recent prior question 1783 here on this Board. In addition to the comments there, I very much doubt the rod-type mount would survive any steam locomotive service. It is simply too insubstantial; the single set screw would loosen almost immediately; the lamp would very shortly be bouncing all over and shaken to pieces, if not pinwheeling around the mounting rod. Horse and wagon service, adequate.  Posted Monday, February 22, 2010 by RJMc

A. OK thanks, your answer makes sense. Would still like info on the burners if possible, and if there is anyone who knows WHAT thier identification number is. Link 1  Posted Monday, February 22, 2010 by QMP

 Q1807 G.W.A.D.R. & N. Co  I bought these sugar tongs with a bunch of dining car silverware. As you can see in the photo they are marked: 'G.W.A.D.R. & N. Co.' . All I could find was this stands for George W. Armstrong Dining Room & News Co. Is this dining car related or were these like Harvey Houses? I haven't been able to come up with any further information. Thanks.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Sunday, February 21, 2010 by Cat   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. I believe that this was a company that had contracts with several railroad companies to operate "news butches" on the trains, the kids that would walk up and down the aisles of the train selling snacks, paperback books, newspapers, etc. They also operated the dining room in Union Station, Portland Maine, and probably other depots as well. All of the references I could find were from New England. Posted Monday, February 22, 2010 by DA

A. Hi Thanks for the info, I found two pairs at a Massachusetts flea market with a dozen different dining car pieces. Thanks Cat Posted Saturday, February 27, 2010 by Cat

 Q1806 A&W versus Adlake  I was wondering when adlake started using the straight across ADLAKE mark instead of using the Adams & Westlake mark. I am dating a group of locks and keys for a Railroad museum and any help you could give me would be appreciated. Thank you for your time  Posted Friday, February 19, 2010 by CJJ   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. According to Barret's book on RR lighting, the name Adlake was first used on their 1912 patent lanterns. Posted Friday, February 19, 2010 by BK

A. The question regarding the hallmark on keys has been asked before on the Q&A board. If I remember correctly the consenses seemed to be that the first hallmark on keys was a 3 line A&W oval 1880-1890,then 2 line A&W oval thru 1905,followed by A&W hex around 1920's,followed by curved ADLAKE thru 1930's, then the straight ADLAKE around the 1940's, then finally a smaller straight ADLAKE. Posted Friday, February 19, 2010 by dj

A. If the Adlake locks are steel, do you know about the dating system on them. Slide the keyway cover to the left and read the numbers. The first number is for the quarter of the year. The next two digits are for the year. For example 151 means January to March, 1951. If the lock is from the 60's or 70's you may not find this date code. Posted Friday, February 19, 2010 by Rail Vandal

A. I do have some steel adlake locks but none of them have the date under the keyway cover. The all have adlake written in cursive on the keyway cover though so I am guessing they are later locks. Thanks for all the above advice. From what you say it looks like most of my keys are 1890-1905.  Posted Friday, February 26, 2010 by CJJ

 Q1805 Fred Harvey Pattern?  I have this platter made by Syracuse China in 1930. I think it might be a Fred Harvey pattern. It's not in Luckin's or McIntyre's book, but I remember seeing someone on ebay listing it as a Fred Harvey pattern. They called the pattern 'Black forest'. Has anyone else ever seen this pattern? Any Information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Tuesday, February 16, 2010 by BN   Post a Reply  Email a reply

 Q1804 Nickel Plate Road Sign  My brother has a Nickel Plate Road sign that (from my memory) is roughly 18 in. x 18 in. square. The sign is glass and has Nickel Plate Road etched into the glass panel. The wording is blue and it has lines in a square pattern etched along the border of it. The sign is a 4 inch deep box and lights up from a light bulb behind the glass. It 'appears' to be old. He was told that it came out of a station and that it would be lite up in the station. Does anyone know if the Nickel Plate stations had such a sign? Thanks.  Posted Tuesday, February 16, 2010 by Greg   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Hello. I never saw a sign like that around the Cleveland, OH, area; we were in many NKP stations up until the end of passenger service in the 1960's and on into the N&W merger. What area do you think it came from? RJMc  Posted Tuesday, February 16, 2010 by RJMc

A. However, a logo in a box with lights behind it is the general description of a 'tail sign' or 'drumhead' for a passenger train. I would expect a tail sign to be larger than 18" square. It would be very sturdily made, and would have a way to hang it on either the brass rail of an observation or office car, or on the folding tail gate of a regular vestibule. Does it have a regular electric plug, or something different? Are the light bulbs standard household type (120 V), or maybe low voltage? In the 1950's and 1960's, the NKP passenger trains always had a very distinctive large Mars oscillating red light on the back, plus electric marker lights, but no tail sign. Posted Tuesday, February 16, 2010 by RJMc

A. I am trying to get pictures and will post them, it may be a couple of days. The unit is definitely not built to be outside. My brother was told that it was from the Cleveland area. I am hoping that it is not something that was sold in a magazine to be hung in a room. It does not look cheap or appear to be cheaply made. It looks older too, not new. It is now wired to work off of 110v. Thanks. Posted Wednesday, February 17, 2010 by GH

A. Greg, Include a photo of the plug on the end of the cord as well. Railroad appliances such as drum heads and electric markers were wired with heavy duty 110 volt hardware; cords plugs and bulb sockets, even though they ran on 32 volts. A 110 v. bulb will screw right into a 32 v. railroad socket and a railroad light bulb will fit in a standard home light socket (and pop with a very bright blue flash if you turn it on !!!) Many cords on markers etc. had a twist lock plug. The prongs (only two) had a little flag or foot on the end. When you inserted the plug into the socket you would twist it to the right and it would lock into the outlet socket so it didn't vibrate out. ....Red Beard Posted Wednesday, February 17, 2010 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. Regarding drumheads/tail signs, everyone needs to be aware they are fairly easy to make (I made one, by sawing off a 55-gal drum.) It's just a box or drum with some lights in it, with a transparent sign across the front. I went to an auction of a collector who had passed away, over a year ago west of Philadelphia. The collector obviously liked drum signs; he had had something like 300 of them made to hang on the walls of his (obviously large) house. Almost every famous train and RR in history was represented on the signs at this auction. Most were round, but some (as appropriate) were square or keystone shaped. He had ordered many of them, apparently earlier on, new from the original Chicago manufacturer that supplied the 'authentic' ones. Later he had the boxes made in his local machine shop and a local artist painted the signs. The hardware on these later ones was obviously not heavy-duty enough to have been out on the RR. Although I always pay attention to NKP stuff, I just don't recall whether he had an NKP logo there or not, but he may well have. As I recall, the lowest auction price was $50 and it went up (way up) from there per sign.  Posted Thursday, February 18, 2010 by RJMc

A. Another very intensely interested Cleveland-area NKP fan recalls signs such as yours being produced for sale as mementos, possibly by a hobby shop in Lorain, OH., along with other RR logos signs. Also that some of these same, or similar signs may have been awarded as door prizes at early NKPH&TS convention banquets. (Late 1960's early 1970's.) Posted Saturday, February 20, 2010 by RJMc

A. Sorry I have not got the pictures posted yet. My digital camera broke. It will be about 1 week before I can post them yet. I appreciate all the information. I will get them posted. Posted Monday, February 22, 2010 by Greg

A. Maybe about 20 years ago the NKP Historical & Technical Society had a convention in Buffalo. I remember something similar to what you describe was constructed and sold as souvenir on a very limited basis. Can't tell you if your item is one of those, but it is possibility.  Posted Sunday, February 28, 2010 by JFR

 Q1803 Capital Dome Emblem  I was hoping if anyone would be able to tell me if this B&O plaque in my attached pictures is real or fake (reproduction)? It is 16-1/4 in. in diameter. The thing that I was worried about is the lack of detail on the thin piece that is above the capital building. I have seen engine plaques, which this may not be (is it a bridge plaque), and they are more detailed on that thin connecting piece. Another thing that I have noticed is that the engine plaques have about a 1/4 in. long extension of the bolt hole on the back of the plaques, the back of this is flat (no bolt hole extensions). I have taken a very long and close look at that thin connecting piece and I am convinced that it is not a fabricated piece that someone made because they broke out/off the real one. Thanks for any info on this piece.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Tuesday, February 16, 2010 by Greg   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. What is it made of, brass, steel, aluminum or a compound material? Posted Wednesday, February 17, 2010 by Ex Sou Ry

A. I just checked, the whole thing is magnetic. It looks to me to be cast iron, not steel. Posted Wednesday, February 17, 2010 by Greg

A. The 4th Quarter 2005 issue of The Sentinel published by the Baltimore & Ohio Historical Society has a lengthly article on the B&O's engine plates and you should be able to identify what you have.. The aricle also lists what plates have been reproduced. Posted Monday, February 22, 2010 by Bob D.

 Q1802  ALCO builders plate  I have an ALCO builders plate, #74017, Sept 1946. I would like to find out what locomotive it was on. I think it may have been on a locomotive built for the French National Ry right after WWII, 141R is on a tag. If you can tell me where to research this information, I would appreciate it. Thanks  Posted Friday, February 12, 2010 by Don   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. You have the right idea as my Alco records show this as a 2-8-2 steam engine built for the French Nat Rys Posted Friday, February 12, 2010 by CD

A. If the builders numbers and the road numbers follow a consecutive pattern it may have come from SNCF 141R 944. The 141 stands for the number of wheels on only one side of the locomotive, while the American system (i.e. 2 pilot wheels 8 drivers 2 trailing wheels) designates the number of wheels per axle or wheels on both sides of the engine. So a French 1-4-1 is the same as an American 2-8-2 Mikado type locomotive. See Q1720 in the Archives which is about another builders plate from a Lima built 141R. And here is a link to a Wikipedia article on the 141R class that has a complete list of the builders numbers and the corresponding SNCF road number. There were 5 or 6 different builders that provided 1340 engines. They also list the surviving locomotives from the 141R class and I don't see any Alco's in that list. Link 1  Posted Friday, February 12, 2010 by KM

A. There is a photo in that Wikipedia article of builders plates from the five manufacturers of the 141R class. Those plates do not show any tag that uses the 141R. Where is the tag on your plate, is it a permanent metal tag or just a temporary paper ID tag? The link is for the photo of the builders plates.  Link 1  Posted Friday, February 12, 2010 by KM

A.  The tag I mentioned was just a paper one. This background is all very interesting! Thank you very much! Posted Saturday, February 13, 2010 by Don

A. An interesting side note about the "Liberation" 141R Mikados is that 16 from Montreal Locomotive Works never made it to France because they were lost when the Norwegian ship MV Belpamela went down in violent weather off Newfoundland in April, 1947. There was usually a delay after production in shipping the heavy 141R locomotives because the only ships that were capable of carrying them were the "Bel" series ships from Norway. Seems like Norway has a long history of transporting large heavy objects by sea. Does anyone know if the locomotives were ever recovered, or are they still on the bottom with the ship wreck off Newfoundland? The link shows photos of the Belpamela being loaded with locomotives, and also subway cars. Link 1  Posted Sunday, February 14, 2010 by KM

 Q1801 PRR Handlan-Buck Lanterns  I have PRR Handlan-Buck short-globe and a tall-globe lanterns. The problem I'm having in determining the manufacturer's date or date range for the tall-globe lantern (clear and etched with PRR) is that its frame is the same as the short-globe lantern (Railroadiana's Various Short-Globe Lanterns online page and the Handlan #355 lantern). The only difference is that the tall-globe version doesn't have the lowered globe holder; the holder is situated within the lid in order to compensate for the extra length of the globe). I'm uncertain if the tall-globe version is something that an antique dealer modified or that was actually used this way by the PRR. The last patented date for the tall-globe frame (bottom of the fount) is 7-10-28.  Posted Monday, February 8, 2010 by LS   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. How tall is your tall globe? Posted Monday, March 1, 2010 by Bill K.

 Q1800 Where is This From?  I picked up a 3 1/2 in. x 5 in. aluminum plate today. The name on it is Railway Specialties Corp. The plate has a Hatch size and a Pressure value of 5 psi. Could this be a builders plate off of something like a tank car? Does anyone out there have any ideas? Thanks for any help anyone can give me.  [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Sunday, February 7, 2010 by JN   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Hello. BUSHIPS is the US Navy Bureau of Ships, which controls ship and accessory design for the Navy. The FSN is the Federal Stock Number, which can be looked up to see what the item is (but I don't have the listing to do it.) The "N" contract number is a US Navy contract to buy something. 5 psi is a very low test pressure, probably just to make sure the 'hatch' -- whatever it was -- was properly sealed to keep out weather or water. Actually, the item this labelled may have been the hatch itself, used somewhere on a Navy ship.  Posted Sunday, February 7, 2010 by RJMc

A. I may be off but whatever it is, apparently it was made for the Navy before 1974 as Federal Stock Numbers (FSN) were changed to National Stock Numbers (NSM) in that year. Posted Monday, February 8, 2010 by BC

A. I showed the pic to a friend of mine who works for the Navy. He pretty much confirmed this tag would label a hatch used in the deck of a Navy ship. The 'WT' is probably 'water tight' and also confirming BC's coment, it was only called BUSHIPS until about 1975. Many railroad industry suppliers also make military parts, which appears to be the case here. Posted Tuesday, February 9, 2010 by RJMc

A. Railway Specialties has been manufacturing marine doors, hatches and manholes since they were mobilized in WW2. Here are two links, the first one for their "About Us" page on their website and the second one showing an aircraft carrier that they provided parts for.  Link 1  Link 2  Posted Saturday, February 13, 2010 by KM

A. If you look at the Products page in Railway Specialties webpage, you will find Plan number 805 1626021 which is for this hatch. RWTQA stands for Raised Water Tight Quick Acting and it may also have been Spring Loaded. Apparently they still make this hatch.  Posted Sunday, February 14, 2010 by KM

 Q1799 NKP Cards  Hi Everyone, While at a flea market today I picked up a double set of playing cards in a Nickel Plate box. The box has the silver Nickel Plate Road logo and the 'Bridge Scoring Rules' card has the logo also. The two decks of playing cards, however, are a red and a black deck as shown. Are these the actual cards that go in this box? I was skeptical until I found the Nickel Plate card in the box with the two decks. Anyone have clues to authenticity and approx date? Thank You.  [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Sunday, February 7, 2010 by JN   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. The correct decks are red and green with the NKP logo Posted Tuesday, February 9, 2010 by BK

A. Sorry, Black and Red Posted Tuesday, February 9, 2010 by BK

A. Your suspicion that these are the wrong cards is correct. The two decks of cards were red and dark blue and should have the same pattern with the NKP logo as the one NKP card that you have. My brothers and I inherited several decks of these cards from a former Vice President of the NKP in 1966. The link is for Sue Knous's website "Railroad Memories.com" and it shows quite a few railroad playing card sets including one from the NKP.  Link 1  Posted Sunday, February 14, 2010 by KM

A. Thanks for your help everyone. The cards only cost me $3 and I figured that the rules card and the box itself were worth that so I couldn't go too wrong with this purchase. JN Posted Monday, February 15, 2010 by JN

 Q1798 A&W Lanterns  Hello, What year did the A&W lantern company change from a bent wire latch to a flat clip latch? Also, what does the year stamped on the top of the dome stand for? Thanks.  Posted Sunday, February 7, 2010 by RDC   Post a Reply  Email a reply

 Q1797 Date of a Dressel Short Globe Lantern?  I have a question on the date of my PRR Dressel lantern. The lantern has the standard patent number on the bottom, 2157081. A lantern similar to mine is pictured on the Lovell-Dressel Lanterns' webpage at the bottom right photo (Heavy Duty short-globe). According to the information provided, the lantern could have been made until the late 1960s (between 1939 to when PRR merged in 1968). I assume there is no other means of discerning when this lantern was manufactured?  Posted Sunday, February 7, 2010 by LBS   Post a Reply  Email a reply